| Climbing Expeditions on Spantik 2004/2005 |
|
NORTH PAKISTAN is organizing an Expedition on Spantik 7027M Peak in 2004 that is named NORTH PAKISTAN INTERNATIONAL SPANTIK 7027M EXPEDITION 2004. We offer all the climbers around the world, who would like to join this expedition and need to send the particulars at least before the June and may have contact with us for more details.
|
Route:
|
Normal Route
|
|
Duration:
|
31-days from Islamabad to back Islamabad
|
|
Meeting of members:
|
At Islamabad at 25th July 2004
|
|
Type of Expedition:
|
Unguided Expedition
|
|
Mode of payment:
|
20% should be transferred to our Bank account in
advance to confirm the participation and the rest of amount can be paid after your
arrival to Islamabad before departing to the mountain
|
|
Terms and Conditions:
|
The expedition will start from Islamabad and all
the expedition members will join here and proceed to the mountain all together
with leader and while coming back from the Base Camp all members should be
together, if someone stays more in the Base Camp and if someone wants to go
earlier or latter to the Base Camp, should pay extra. High Altitude food, tents,
climbing equipments, high altitude porters and any service beyond the Base
Camp is NOT included in our services.
|
For more details you may contact:
Tel: 0092-51-2281655, 0092-51-2251034
Cell: 0092-303-6506495
Fax: 0092-51-2260835
north@isb.compol.com
info@north-pakistan.com
ishaq_jan@yahoo.com
SPANTIK/7027M BY NORMAL ROUTE:
The Spantik that is also called the Yengutz Peak is the part of the mountain chain, which forms the boundary between Hunza-Nager and Baltistan in one of the quieter parts of the Karakoram. The people from Hunza and Nager Valley called the mountain GOLDEN PEAK/GOLDEN PILLAR form this side. Viewed from Hunza-Karimabad, the sun setting on Golden Pillar is a truly remarkable sight. The ascend of the Pillar from this side, difficult through North Pillar that is technical route, first climbed by British mountaineers in 1987, was milestone in technical difficulty for Himalayan Mountaineers.
The other side (from Skardu-Balistan) of the mountain is less daunting and offers a route to the summit that more of climbers achieve. On this side Spantik Peak is at the head of CHOGOLUNGME GLACIER in Arandu Valley- Skardu. It is usually climbed from Chogolungme Glacier (Arandu side), via the relatively easy long South East Ridge that is called NORMAL ROUTE.
ROUTE:
The climb a long the South East Ridge is the most achievable route of any 700m Peak in the Pakistani Karakoram. This route is generally considered a safe and technically easy route and has become the obvious target for commercially organized expeditions looking for straightforward ascent to 7000m. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-Km length affording several safe campsites. The climb through long and arduous is not technically difficult. The average gradient is 30 to 45 degree but there some short steps that provide some climbing interest. Spantik is a truly Himalayan scale objective, an ideal next step for those who previously climbed a 6000m peak or those preparing for an 8000m expedition.
BACKGROUND:
It was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock-Workman by this route that reached up to the 6700m, a female altitude record at that time. A German expedition who made the first successful ascent the mountain by this route in 1955 and repeated several times since.
APPROACH:
Lying to the south of the great Hispar Glacier and standing above the remote upper Chogolungma Glacier, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path starting from the Village of ARANDU follows the beautiful ablution Valley a long the side of the Choglungma Glacier, with stunning vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks all the way to Base Camp. Arandu is connected to Skardu by jeep able road and Skardu is administrative capital of Baltistan and based for the expeditions for several peaks.
HIGHER CAMPS:
The Base Camp is at the altitude of about 4300m and higher camps are set up normally at about altitude of
Camp-I (5250m)
Camp-II (5650m)
Camp-II (6250m)
CLIMBING:
The South East Ridge of Spantik is one of the most attainable routes to a 7000m summit in the Karakuram. From a rocky Base Camp (4300m) on the edge of Chogolungma Glacier, the route follows moderately angled snow slopes. The ridge goes up 2700m higher over its 8-Km length. The slopes are mostly 30 degree less with a short section of 40 degree. Base Camp is at the altitude of 4300m and Camp-I is located on a series of rocky platforms close to snowline. From Base Camp-I follows a moderately steep slope on grass then high up changes to a scramble up rocky ridge with platform loose screen. The route then follows the long undulating ridge mostly on snow to large level site of Camp-II (4-5hrs). Above this slope steeped and 500-600m of rope normally be fixed between Camp-II and III. The first section of 400m will be fixed on open 35° slopes leading to a large snow platform. Sometime the climbers use this as a campsite. After a few hundred meters there is easy ground then slope of 40° sections where 150m ropes will be fixed, before reaching an obvious crest on the ridge. Here is place of the Camp III (6250m), on a wide snow ledge below the summit slopes and 4-5 hrs from Camp-II. The route to summit from Camp-III is quite straightforward. A gentle slope a height of 6650 where it steepness to join the South West Ridge. This is then follow for 400m at an average angle of 30° until it levels out 100m below the summit, where will be equipped with fix rope. The top of mountain is a rounded snow dome and 50m of rope may be fixing on the short section leading onto the summit slopes (6-8 hrs ascent 2-3 hrs descent).
The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring mountains Rakaposhi 7788m and Diran 7258m as well as Ulter, Batura and Haramosh peaks and in the distance the giant peaks of the central Karakuram including Mt. K-2.
TIME SUMMARY OR ITINERARY:
We start our trip from Islamabad to Skardu by road on Karakuram Highway to Chilas (11-12 hrs drive) then next day 7-8 hrs to Skardu. We have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle of many travelers purchasing supplies and hiring porters. Our next destination is the small village ARANDU, which is 85-Km Jeep journey a long narrow mountain road. After hiring the porters we will start the trek to the Base Camp.
|
25th 26th July 2004:
|
Arrival to Islamabad, briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and formalities
|
|
27th 29th July 2004:
|
Transfers to Skardu, shopping and preparation
|
|
30th 2nd August 2004:
|
Transfers to the Base Camp, the approach to the Base Camp is about 304 days trek on Chogolungma Glacier
|
|
3rd 17th August 2004:
|
The climbing and acclimatization
|
|
18th 23rd August 2004:
|
Return to Islamabad via Skardu and formalities at Islamabad
|
|
24th August 2004:
|
Departure from Islamabad
|
EQUIPMENT NOTE:
We will provide only Base Camp equipment, you will arrange high altitude equipment and also you need to bring your own personal equipment including ice axe, helmet, ascender (e.g. petzl /jumar), descending deice (preferable a figure of 80, crampons, rope, rucksack, climbing harness, plastic mountaineering boots, wind/waterproof cloths, sleeping bag, mattresses, down/duvet Jacket, rain suit, warm cloths and other personal necessary equipments etc.
PHYSICAL FITNESS AND HEALTH:
To participate this trip you must be very fit, active trekker with climbing skill and in a good health. Prior to joining this trip, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude and also for exotic locals. Make sure that you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before start this climb. Malaria is found on the plains of Pakistan, although it is not as common as in wetter areas of the Pakistan. There is none of the disease in the mountains, but you will still need to take anti-malaria drugs. It is best to assume all tap water and steam water is not safe to drink. During the trek to and at the Base camp you will get boil water to drink but you may take the a variety of tablets or alternatively take a small bottle of tincture of iodine and put a couple of drops in each liter of water you want to treat. The group would have an extensive communal first kit.
EXPEDITION MEMBER EXPERIENCE:
Although Spantik is an extremely easy and low angle mountain, the member should have knowledge of roped climbing techniques. It is also required that all the members will have awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite and recognition of their symptoms, prevention and treatment.
VISA:
You need a visa to enter the Pakistan. These can be obtained relatively easily from a Pakistani embassy or consulate in your country. You need a single entry tourist visa .
|
|
|
|
|
